282 PRÆTERITA-II

hills clear as crystal against a pale distant purity of green sky, the sun touching here and there upon their turfy precipices, and the white, square villages along the gulph gleaming like silver to the north-west;-a mass of higher mountain, plunging down into broad valleys dark with olive, their summits at first grey with rain, then deep blue with flying showers-the sun suddenly catching the near woods at their base, already coloured exquisitely by the autumn, with such a burst of robing, penetrating glow as Turner only could even imagine, set off by the grey storm behind. To the south, an expanse of sea, varied by reflection of white Alpine cloud, and delicate lines of most pure blue, the low sun sending its line of light-forty miles long-from the horizon; the surges dashing far below against rocks of black marble, and lines of foam drifting back with the current into the open sea. Overhead, a group of dark Italian pine and evergreen oak, with such lovely ground about their roots as we have in the best bits of the islands of Derwentwater. This continued till near sunset, when a tall double rainbow rose to the east over the fiery woods, and as the sun sank, the storm of falling rain on the mountains became suddenly purple-nearly crimson; the rainbow, its hues scarcely traceable, one broad belt of crimson, the clouds above all fire. The whole scene such as can only come once or twice in a lifetime.”

45. I see that we got to Rome on a Saturday, November 28th. The actual first entry next morning is, perhaps, worth keeping:-

“Nov. 29th, Sunday.-A great fuss about Pope officiating in the Sistine Chapel-Advent Sunday. Got into a crowd, and made myself very uncomfortable for nothing: no music worth hearing, a little mummery with Pope and dirty cardinals. Outside and west façade of St. Peter’s certainly very fine: the inside

[Version 0.04: March 2008]