V. THE SIMPLON 329

man, partly in respect for us, now favourably known in Chamouni, the law was relaxed by the Chef des Guides in our favour, and Couttet came to us on the morning of the 7th of June. My father explained to him that he wanted me taken charge of on the hills, and not permitted in any ambitious attempts, or taken into any dangerous places; and that, from what he had heard of Couttet’s trust-worthiness, and knowledge of his mountains, he had no doubt that I should be safe with him, and might learn more under his tutelage, in safety, than by the most daring expeditions under inferior masters. Couttet said little, but accepted the charge with a kindly glitter in his eyes, and a cheerful word or two, signifying that my father need not fear for me; and we set out together for the base of the Buet,-I on muleback, he walking.

For thirty years he remained my tutor and companion. Had he been my drawing-master also, it would have been better for me: if my work pleased Couttet, I found afterwards it was always good; and he knew perfectly when I was trying vainly to do what I could not, or foolishly what no one else would care for.

The month at Chamouni, however, passed with his approval, and to my perfect benefit. I made two foreground studies in colour, of considerable beauty;¹ and, under his teaching, began to use my alpenstock easily, and to walk with firmness.

94. Of our habitual Chamouni life-papa’s, mamma’s, and mine-I shall give account further on:² I take from this year’s diary only the note on first reaching the bases of the aiguilles.

“At last, on steep inclined planes of snow, reached the base of the Little Charmoz; but was amazed to find that the size of the aiguilles seemed to diminish with every step of approach, after a certain point, and

¹ [One of these is here reproduced (Plate XXI.); another (though it is dated 1842) is the frontispiece of Vol. IV.]

² [See chapter xi.]

[Version 0.04: March 2008]