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494 PRÆTERITA-III

that my drawings did not prosper that year, and, in deepest sense, never prospered again. They might not have prospered in the course of things,-and indeed, could not without better guidance than my own; nevertheless, the crisis of change is marked at Rheinfelden by my having made there two really pretty colour-vignettes, which, had I only gone on doing the like of, the journey would have been visibly successful in everybody’s sight. Whereas, what actually followed those vignettes at Rheinfelden was a too ambitious attempt at the cliffs of the Bay of Uri, which crushed the strength down in me; and next, a persistently furious one to draw the entire town, three fortresses, and surrounding mountains of Bellinzona, gradually taming and contracting itself into a meekly obstinate resolve that at least I would draw every stone of the roof right in one tower of the vineyards,1-“cette baraque,” as Couttet called it.

I did draw every stone, nearly right, at last in that single roof; and meantime read the Plutus of Aristophanes, three or four times over in two months,2 with long walks every afternoon, besides. Total result on 1st of August-general desolation, and disgust with Bellinzona,-cette baraque,- and most of all with myself, for not yet knowing Greek enough to translate the Plutus. In this state of mind, a fit took me of hunger for city life again, military bands, nicely-dressed people, and shops with something inside. And I emphasized Couttet’s disapproval of the whole tour, by announcing to him suddenly that I was going of all places in the world, to Turin!

23. I had still some purpose, even in this libertinage, namely, to outline the Alpine chain from Monte Viso to Monte Rosa. Its base was within a drive; and there were Veroneses in the Royal gallery, for wet days. The luxury of the Hôtel de l’Europe was extremely pleasant after brick

1 [For Ruskin’s various studies of Bellinzona and Rheinfelden, see the Catalogue of Drawings in the Index volume. The “attempt at the cliffs of the Bay of Uri” may be the sketch which was No. 123 in the Ruskin Exhibition of 1907.]

2 [For his notes on the play, see Vol. XXXIV. pp. 688-690.]

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[Version 0.04: March 2008]