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or Harfleur; no perceptible difference, while every town
in Italy has a separate style. Note also the vile
affectation of the statue of Madonna under central niche
between doors, while the mere sculpture is very good;
but so low in feeling so far inferior even to the Bon affectation,
which has still some chasteness and dignity
about it, here all lost in French attitude and drapery
Effigies The Effigies of the Popes in the cathedral are miserably
poor. The tabernacle of Jean struck me from its excessive
foolishness as compared to Verona - the Unquiet pastry
cook filigree look of it - the undetermined system of
support, as if were all stuck together with glue - the
curious semipiers semi buttresses; the shafts without
capitals, the arches without beginning or spring - the
irregularly scattered ornament How different from the
nobly organised simplicity of Verona. Yet its parts
are pretty; two angels at each end - restored - but
their wings, deliciously thrown, and the gables of the
small arches pierced with pretty starry six foils.
A Romanesque altar - once the high altar - is quite invaluable
in comparison. It has whirling leaves; almost
Whirling Byzantine in feeling with in one case, a small bird,
leaves in the other a doubtful beast, set in the middle of
each wheel - Grotesque and intensely ugly heads holding
the stems in their mouths, and their
[Version 0.05: May 2008]