Farmed salmon has become the UK’s most eaten seafood, but new Lancaster University research reveals its popularity has been driven by deliberate strategies from retailers and industry, without raising overall fish consumption.

The study by Dr James Robinson from Lancaster Environment Centre and Dr Josiane Fernandes from Lancaster University Management School shows how ‘market-making’ through the combined efforts of producers, retailers, and policymakers has shaped the way salmon is presented and consumed.

The research found that salmon’s reputation as a healthy, sustainable, and convenient food has been carefully constructed through labelling, health messaging, and the development of ready-to-eat products. These strategies have made salmon highly visible in UK supermarkets, where it is offered in dozens of different product forms.

The study combined interviews with eight key stakeholders, including researchers, policymakers, and industry representatives, with analysis of seafood consumption and trade data. It revealed that while salmon now dominates the UK seafood market, overall seafood consumption remains below recommended dietary levels. Salmon’s rise has displaced other nutritious and often more affordable species such as haddock, herring and mussels, which could play a greater role in delivering sustainable and healthy diets.

Scotland produces over 7% of the world’s farmed salmon, but the industry is dominated by just four companies responsible for more than 90% of UK output. In 2022, salmon exports were worth £701 million, making up 41% of all UK seafood exports. Supermarkets have built on this success, promoting salmon with eco-labels and the ‘Scottish salmon’ brand to strengthen its image as a high-quality, sustainable choice.

However, the research highlights tensions between these narratives and environmental realities. Large-scale intensive salmon farming faces challenges, including issues with feed supply chains, disease, and increasing pressure on wild salmon populations. Although accreditation schemes aim to improve standards, the study notes that environmental footprints remain substantial.

Dr Robinson said of the study results: “The rise of farmed salmon is often presented as a seafood success story, but the data show that UK seafood diets have become less diverse and remain below health guidelines. Consumers now rely on expensive farmed salmon, with a significant environmental footprint.”

Dr Fernandes said: “Farmed salmon’s dominance owes much to the concerted effort of various stakeholders, including farming corporations, retailers and policy makers. We can learn lessons to make better markets that encourage and enable the consumption of more affordable, nutritious and environmentally sustainable foods.”

The analysis also found that farmed salmon is consumed primarily by more affluent households, making it one of the UK’s most expensive sources of animal protein. While salmon is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, other species such as mackerel and herring provide similar benefits at a lower cost and impact.

The authors argue that lessons from salmon’s success could be applied to promote a more diverse range of seafoods, helping address nutrient gaps in UK diets while reducing environmental pressures.

The study was supported by a Lancaster University Management School Pump Prime Grant, and Dr Robinson’s fellowships from the Leverhulme Trust and Royal Society. The full paper, published in Environmental Research Letters, can be found here